Our founder, Simon, wears all the Permanent Style products to death, and many of them are designed based on needs he has found he's had over the years. He is also often the one photographed in the items when they are launched. 

For this reason, information on what size he wears and whether he sizes up or down, is often included in articles and on product pages. This article here summarises all of that, so that those that are a similar size - or use him as a reference point - can find everything in one place. 

Sizing advice is of course available more broadly, and all the PS team have experience of fitting pieces on readers when they come to the different pop-up shops. So for any other advice, please do email support@permanentstyle.com with your queries. 

Simon is six foot tall (183cm), with a 39-inch (99cm) chest and relatively slim (34 inch/86cm waist). Here is his description of the fits:

Summer

Finest knitwear: Dartmoor, Finest Crewneck, Finest Polo

Size I take: Medium

We currently have three products made from superfine merino. The collared long-sleeve knit is called the ‘Dartmoor’ after an old Smedley collaboration. The crewneck is just called the Finest Crewneck and the polo shirt is called the Finest Polo. They’re referred to as the ‘finest’ because they use the finest merino and finest make anywhere. 

All three used to be quite slim, but we relaxed them two years ago, adding 2cm in the waist. I’d now describe it as a classic, comfortable fit. But it’s not large - I’m slimmer than most for my chest size, and the body is perfect on me. 

All three have the same body fit and I am a solid medium - I wouldn’t want to size up or down. The Dartmoor has the advantage of a double cuff, which means it can be adjusted slightly for longer or shorter arms. That's the Finest Polo above, in cream, worn with a silk Pirozzi jacket. 

Hand-framed cotton sweater

Size I take: Medium

The hand-framed cotton sweaters we make with Speciale fit similarly to our other knitwear (summarised in the winter version of this article) but they grow a little, as cotton tends to do. For this reason I wear a medium, rather than the large I now usually wear in the cashmere crewneck. 

If in doubt - only if between sizes or unsure - I would advise readers to size down for that reason. Note also that the neck is deliberately small, as we like a high collar. This will feel tight when first tried on, but will relax a little as needed - and there’s nothing worse than a sloppy cotton collar. 

Overshirts: Linen and Suede

Size I take: Medium and Large

The Linen Overshirt is the most popular thing we do for summer, it’s a comfortable fit and I’m a solid medium. However, it’s important to note that there is some shrinkage with the linen if machine washed. So if you like the fit as it is, best to dry clean when needed. (I rarely do.) 

The Suede Overshirt made by Rifugio in Naples is made to the same specifications and size as the linen. Like the shirts, we do this even when there are different manufacturers, to keep sizing easier. However, if you wear the suede overshirt over knitwear at all, I would recommend sizing up. I do this more these days and so would take a large in that going forward. 

Linen Harrington

Size I take: Medium

The Linen Harrington jacket is a blouson - it’s designed to fit close in the waist, so there’s lots of flattering size and freedom of movement in the chest. When you try to zip it up it should be tight - you should need to pull on the elastic to get it to fasten. Then it should ride up onto your hips, and stay there. Let the top ‘blouse’ out. 

I’m a solid medium again. (It’s worth repeating, as some variation is coming soon.)

T-shirts: Heavy tapered tee and Undershirt

Size I take: Large and Medium

The Japanese T-shirts we do are ‘tapered’ only in the sense that all regular T-shirts are tapered (the hips are a little narrower than the chest) but most Japanese circular knitted tees are not. We wanted the quality of the latter but the fit of the former, so you get the heavy quality but a regular fit. 

I could wear a medium or a large in those, and in the launch post I showed the difference between the two. I wear a large (above) more often, as I like that roomier fit in a T-shirt more, and that’s what I’d recommend to people generally. But a medium is fine too, just a closer fit.

In the undershirts I am a medium, but note that these deliberately fit a little snug (as they’re meant to be mostly an undershirt) and then give a little when needed, making them super-comfortable. They are also deliberately long, so they stay tucked in. 

Shorts

Size I take: Large (50)

I find it interesting that the PS Shorts are the piece that has changed most in style over the years, particularly in regards to the length. My style has changed a little too, in that I prefer a slightly looser fit and wider leg now, and so would wear a 50 (large) rather than 48 (medium, above). 

However, as readers will be bored of hearing by now, I have quite a large bum compared to my waist size, so I always have to compromise on one or the other. In the past I would have put up with a closer fit on the seat. Today I get the right fit there and take in the waist if I need to. 

(It’s also not possible to let out the waist on garment-washed clothes, as it leaves a mark.)

Winter

Donegal coats

Size I take: 4 (Medium)

The Donegal coat - our take on a classic raglan-shouldered overcoat - is designed to flow and drape. It’s worse to have it too tight than too loose. If readers are between sizes, I advise them to size up, especially as it’s easy to shorten the sleeves or the body, but pretty much impossible to reduce the shoulders. 

Having said that, I often find people can wear two sizes. One will be a more traditional cut - looser, can be thrown over anything - and the other will be contemporary, cleaner and neater. It’s a style choice. I’d still say size up if in doubt, and I’m a solid 4 (a 5 is OK but a little too much towards big and loose) but remember there is a style element here as well. 

English Tweed

Size in take: 4 (Medium)

The English Tweed coat is modelled off a 1980s belted DB, and is meant to be loose and low slung. A different style to the Donegals, but the advice is similar: if between sizes, size up. You want it to feel roomy, to be able to layer big knits, and be able to button up under the chin. 

Interestingly, I can wear a 5 in this. The reason is that the waist can be cinched, unlike the Donegal, so even if it’s roomy on the shoulders, it doesn’t have to be that much bigger in the waist. 

Wax Walker

Size I take: 4 (Medium) 

This is probably the most straightforward of the coats. Anyone around my chest size, who would wear a 40-inch jacket (50 in European sizing) will be a 4/Medium, and then each size up is equivalent to two inches (42 is Large, 44 X-Large and so on). 

The only complication with the Wax Walker is that you have a removable flannel liner, which you will sometimes use, sometimes not. If you find the jacket a little snug with the liner in, that’s OK, as some of the time you’ll take it out. 

Also, like the English Tweed, the waist can be cinched (this time with an internal cord), so you can use that to make the coat a little smaller when you take the liner out - or wear it with a knit rather than a jacket. In the shop, people rarely realise this and we also make them try it cinched and uncinched. 

Bridge Coat

Size I take: 5 (Large)

And this one is the hardest to fit. Basically, the Bridge Coat can look amazing because it is made with a slim waist and wide shoulders; if you’re slim it works really well. But if you’re not it can be tricky. 

Most of the time we advise people to size up, and I do these days. I used to be able to get into a 4, and that’s what the original photos show, but I’m a little bigger now and prefer a little more space as well. Check the measurements, as always, but you’ll probably want a size up from your other coats. 

Rider’s Raincoat

Size I take: Medium/38

This is the opposite shape to the Bridge Coat: slightly narrow in the shoulders, big and A-line in the body. The mistake people often make in the pop-up shop, is they don’t use the belt to cinch the waist in the back. This is how you give the coat shape, and give it that lovely flattering silhouette. 

Even with this cinch, I effectively size down, taking a 38, but we call this the Medium in order to align the sizes across the shop. The only reason I would say there is to size up, is if you will be only wearing it over a tailored jacket or suit. 

The Court Jacket

Size I take: 4 (Medium)

The Court Jacket is a bomber or blouson-style shape. This means it’s big in the chest but gathered tight at the waist. So you get a great silhouette and lots of freedom of movement in the upper body. 

The chest measurement looks large as as result, but that size in the medium is the intended style for someone of my size. Go up two inches for every size, roughly, as with the other coats. 

The Cashmere Crewneck

Size I take: Large

On to knitwear. This wardrobe classic has a fairly slim body and it’s not the kind of thing you want to be clingy, especially if you ever want to wear it over a shirt. So despite me being pictured in all the launch articles wearing a Medium, I actually wear a Large now. 

Interestingly, historically I think a Medium would have been fine for me and it would have been the look I wanted - as with the slim Valstarino point above. It’s not a huge difference, but it’s a style choice between really showing how slim you are in the body, and emphasising the face, the shoulders, with comfort elsewhere. Fortunately these trends take about 20 years to change in menswear. 

The Cashmere Rugby

Size I take: Large

This is more straightforward, as I’ve always suggested a Large in these for me. They came up a little small when we made them - perhaps because of that double-thick cashmere - and I think they’re nicest when they’re comfy and roomy. So I take a Large and that’s definitely the right size. 

Interestingly, another thing I say all the time in the pop-up shop is that this is the one PS piece that I think can go with everything from jogging bottoms to tailored trousers at the office. And actually smarten up most people’s office clothing as well. It’s the king of versatility. The only other piece that does anything like it is the cream/black Donegal. 

The Indulgent Shawl-Collar Cardigan

Size I take: Medium

Few people appreciate how indulgent this one is until they try it on. You just want to wrap yourself up in it and fall asleep in the corner. Yet it’s not densely knitted, so it’s not that heavy. 

I’ve included pictures of me wearing this in both a Medium and a Small, and both are OK. I think the biggest issue for most people is actually length (body and sleeves) rather than body. Don’t worry too much about the body fit, just make sure the sleeves and body aren’t too long on you when deciding between two sizes. It’s long already, and will grow a little bit rather than get any smaller. 

All shirts

Size I take: Medium

So, the question everyone always asks with the shirts is, do they all fit the same? Yes, they are made to fit the same, but the oxfords are the only ones with some shrinkage, so they are cut initially a little bit larger. After a couple of washes, they will be the same size as the Denims and the Chambray. 

The steps between the sizes are fairly large, so we can cater to a lot of people across only four sizes. The fit is also relatively slim. My key piece of advice to everyone is, get the fit you like in the collar, the shoulders and the chest. Because everything from the armpit down can be easily altered by a tailor - using darts or by changing the side seams. 

It’s not ideal to have to alter RTW things, but if you’re as attentive to fit as most PS readers are, no RTW is going to be perfect. And just like altering a RTW suit, it’s a small change for a big difference. We have ‘clothing resources’ articles on London and New York with lists of places we recommend for alterations.