The English Tweed Overcoat
The English Tweed overcoat: a louche Winter coat designed to keep you wrapped up and warm on the chilliest of days.
"The inspiration came when I found an old British coat from 1980 in a vintage store," says Simon. "The coat was large, slouchy, with a really low buttoning point and a droopy collar. It was a little too much for now - a little too period - but with a few updates it’s inspired a really unique but modern piece."
The coat is still big. Big back, long body, generous sleeve: it fits over everything, cinches in the warmth, and buttons all the way up to the chin. But the collar shape has been moderated so it has a pleasing line that runs along its edge and then all the way down the front of the coat.
It has a thick belt that can be tied at the back or used at the front. Its thickness means it needs no prong and holes, but can be fed through the buckle and then pulled back on itself, tucking into the loop at the side or under itself.
The cloth is a heavyweight 800g woven exclusively out of natural undyed English wool: the dark brown, grey and cream yarns are the colours of the sheep themselves.
- Low-slung, slouchy double-breasted raglan coat
- Made from undyed English wool, in Huddersfield by Marling & Evans
- Belt with leather buckle, unholed to fold back on itself
- Two-hole matte horn buttons
- Cashmere-lined hip pockets, with through pocket
- Two inbreast slanted pockets
- Manufactured by Private White VC in Manchester
The coat is made to be easy to alter:
- It is cut a little longer than most modern overcoats, as Simon considers it more practical and flattering
- But it can easily be shortened by a tailor - a good four inches without interrupting the balance
- It can also be lengthened if needed, by around 5cm
- The sleeves can also be lengthened by around 4cm. And they can be shortened. Shortening by 1.5cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved, but that is not a big job for a tailor
- The body can also be narrowed, but isn't recommended, as the style is supposed to be roomy, easy to wear, and flow
- A generous body fit and length, designed to be cinched for warmth
- In the pictures Simon wears a Medium (4)
- He wears a size 40 (50 European) suit jacket and is six feet tall (183cm)
- You should wear the same size as other Private White-made outerwear (apart perhaps from the Bridge Coat)
If in doubt, please compare measurements below to a coat you already own, bearing in mind the fit here is meant to be generous. Don’t worry if it looks big
X-Small/2 Small/3 Medium/4 Large/5 X-Large/6 XX-Large/7 Chest 52cm 54.5 58 61.5 65 68.5 Waist 53 55 59 62.5 66 69.5 Bottom hem 60 62.5 66 69.5 73 76.5 Length 115.5 116 117 118 119 120 Sleeve 82 83 84.5 86 87.5 89 Cuff (width) 16.8 17.1 17.5 17.9 18.3 18.7