The Permanent Style trench coat - Navy

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A modern take on a classic style. 

The Permanent Style trench coat is made from waterproof Ventile cotton, with taped seams and distinctive black-copper hardware.

It features a high, dramatic collar and lapel, innovative belting system and a removable flannel liner - which makes it an effective outer layer most of the year. 

The coat is made by Private White VC in Manchester, England. 

When Simon designed the trench with Private White, he wanted to make something that would be suitable for both suits and more casual clothing - hence the muted navy colour. 

Length was also crucial. Says Simon: "Trench coats have been cut shorter and shorter in recent years, which not only denies them the swish and swagger of a great, long coat, but is highly impractical. In the rain, water simply streams off the bottom and onto the knees as you walk. So I added four inches to the length, meaning it sits definitively below the knee." 

He also wanted to produce an ultimate trench coat, with all the trimmings. The coat therefore has:

  • Big hip pockets, with wool/cashmere lining in the front
  • An angled despatch chest pocket (perfect for a phone)
  • A great throat latch on the collar (which now fastens with a stud on one side)
  • In-set sleeves on the front of the coat, to give a cleaner appearance, but raglan sleeves on the back, to aid movement
  • Gun flaps on the shoulders at the front, and a saddle piece across the back, and
  • Dark-brown horn buttons, fastening that double-breasted front all the way up

It also makes use of a distinctive Private White belting system, where the belt is sewn into the side seam on the left hand side, runs around the back, and then loops through a buckle in the front.

This means that most of the front of the coat is kept clean and un-hampered by the belt, but there is still get the attractive cinching in the back that is characteristic of a trench coat.

Since the coat's original launch, some happy customers have said:

"The coat arrived last Friday and I am happy to say that it surpassed my (high) expectations." Richard. 

"Very nice styling and the copper rivets are a subtle but effective detail. This is a keeper that one day will be passed on to another generation as my late father did for me with his navy balmacaan." Mark

Regarding alterations:

- Length is easy to alter, as the coat is unlined (and the removable lining considerably shorter than the full coat). 

- At least 10cm can be taken off the length of the coat without causing any issues. Private White VC offer a great service in their store for this, or it can be done by a local alterations tailor. 

- The sleeves can also be shortened, but only by about 1.5cm. More than this and the end of the sleeve gets too close to the cuff flap and will look odd. But 1.5cm will make a noticeable difference. 

Sizing is as follows. In the images Simon is wearing a 4, with the liner attached. 

Measurements in cm XS/2 S/3 M/4 L/5 XL/6 XXL/7
Chest 104 109 116 123 130 137
Shoulder to shoulder 42.5 44 45.5 47 49 50.5
Centre back length 118.5 119 120 121 122 123
Sleeve length 67.5 68 69 70 71 72
Waist circumference 100 105 112 119 126 133